Learning to let go through surfing

We, as a species, cling to things. We cling to routines and relationships, though they may not be in our best interest anymore. Familiarity is safety.

Our primitive brains still react to things that are different, difficult, or stressful as threats to our existence, and rightly so. Not even that long ago, 150 years ago, when something was different, it could result in being lost, not finding your way home.

Today, we live in much safer times. Yet that sense of eternal fear still resides in us. Maybe even more than it was before. Where fear once was only about actual survival, we now have to fear eternal embarrassment from being recorded and making a goof of ourselves. Viral.

In surfing, you must let go of all of this. From the moment you decide, this is what you’re going to try.

How is that, you might ask?

First, to even get out in the water, you must squeeze yourself into a wetsuit—a neoprene outfit that, no matter how you look physically, will cling to and hug every imperfection you never knew you had, broadcasting it for all the world to see.

Second, you have to walk out to the water in said outfit, holding a giant longboard under your arm. If you think you’re gonna shred on a shortboard your first time out, that is a misguided thought.

So, you grab the longboard and waddle your way out to the water. Next is the paddle, which even people who are swimmers have issues with. Floating on top of the water versus in the water gives you a whole different feel most are not use to.

As you paddle out into the line-up, you must navigate surfers coming in on a wave, the wave itself, and the timing of the sets. As a beginner, you’ll need to let go of the idea that you are the master as a 1-foot wave rolls in and rolls you over. Your thought of being the highest in existence must quickly be left at the shore every time you come into the water.

After that, you’ll sit out in the line up with people who have done this much more than you. Then, they can read the water, hear the voice, and move in a dance to catch the next wave. You will try to catch the smallest, and it will either roll you forward or pearl your board. An embarrassing situation because other people all watch you. People on the shore. The surfcams. This is an activity where you are watched.

If you manage to get to catch the wave, even luckier if you get to your feet on your own, you then just go straight, but honestly, you don’t care because the motion of the energy is an addiction that you’ll have all your life.

Why?

If you can overcome all that embarrassment and vulnerability and catch that energy even for a second, you’ll feel that split moment of peace, and that is what you will become addicted to.

Peace.

You can only find true peace when you push yourself past your limits because doing that shows you in less horrible, exhaustive, or fearful times that you can make it. In peace, you are more likely to let go and move on. Why Because you don’t care. You’re happy. You’re at peace.

In surfing, you have to let go of things. Waves, your board getting dinged, then the session being over early, you have to let go of what the conditions themselves are. We have Surfline and surf reports, but in an instant, that condition can change. The window that was perfect and magical has suddenly turned to crap when the tide dropped and the wind came up from the south.

You have to let go of fear. Fear will hold you back and stop you from progressing. What you fear comes true, so you have to let go.

Even just finding balance on your board out in the line-up. When you fight the water and try to win, you lose balance, falling into the water. You must let go.

Find balance and let go.